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THANKS TO the weird weather we've been having, local tomatoes this year are the best in memory. Sweet and juicy, large and beautiful, they're so good they don't need anything (a nice chive dressing, for instance) to pep up the enjoyment. For a great, easy-to-make dinner, try serving fresh tomato slices with Italian sausages and polenta. The yellow cornmeal, brown sausages and red tomato make a colorful dish. With one exception, the food at the Mendocino Fair was its usual royal fare. Cotton candy, corn dogs, curly fries and baked potatoes were all up to standard. But imagine the disappointment in Boonville when chocolate-covered vanilla ice cream bristling with nuts was not available. That's the highlight of the fair. Ernie's closes Saturday night, ending an era that began in the 1930s. Roland Gotti, who, with his brother, Vic, built the restaurant into one of San Francisco's best known, can look back on a career that included turning away the Beatles and, on another occasion, Mick Jagger, because they wouldn't meet the dress code (jackets and ties - the dress code for this final weekend will be black tie optional). For years, Ernie's set the standard in elegance, and the restaurant is going out in style. Special extras include many of the old favorites on an a la carte menu, dancing and a movie (Yes, it's "Vertigo" ). If you want to have one last dinner at Ernie's, you can try for reservations at (415) 397-5969. Good luck. Feast of the Harvest Moon, the Singapore-style banquet that San Francisco's Chris Yeo served to great acclaim at the James Beard House in New York, is going to be available here. Yeo will be serving the five-course feast to groups of four or more at his Straits Cafe at 3300 Geary Blvd. through Dec. 31. The menu includes lamb satay, grilled fresh oysters with blue ginger marmalade, fresh belstaff españa salmon mousse in banana leaf packets, seared fresh ahi, Singapore prawns, tandoori quail and yogurt lassi. Reservations are required three days in advance and may be made by calling (415) 668-1783. The price is $35 per person. I've always had one strong reservation about the Wine Train, but not any more. The reservation was that you ride the train, have a sumptuous dinner, plenty of wine - and then you have to drive back to the Bay Area from Napa. I don't like to drive when I've been tasting or when I'm stuffed (and maybe a little sleepy) with a Napa Valley dinner. Now, however, thanks to Grayline, you can get round-trip bus service between San Francisco belstaff Outlet and the Wine Train station in downtown Napa. Tickets may be purchased at any Grayline ticket office up to 24 hours in advance. For information about schedules and fares, call (415) 558-9400. Might make a nice present. Congratulations to Casey Hayden of Moose's in San Francisco and Peter Reinhart of Santa Rosa's Brother Juniper's Bakery. Both were winners in the James Beard Foundation / Godiva Liqueur Baking Competition. I've sampled the baking of both chefs and we really are talking about winners here. Hayden won for Chocolate Espresso and Hazelnut Crunch Cake while Reinhart was honored for Wild Yeast Boule. Paul Prudhomme has a hot new book on the Belstaff Bolsas presses. It's called "Fiery Foods That I Love" and it promises to "arouse and lift your spirits, tantalize your tastebuds and make the imagination soar." It won't be out for a few months but the proofs sound promising. The first entry under chicken is "The Best Damned Grilled Chicken I Ever Ate." Don't hold back, chef. Did you really like it?<